Spread over an area of almost 3000 sq. m, surrounded by a thick mud wall, Tabo gompa is divided into three buildings with the middle structure being most interesting and important. Tabo (also spelt as Ta-pho) was established a thousand years ago and was a part of Western Tibet school which originally designed different mandalas in the form of statues hanging on the walls of the gompa to meditate upon. However 800 years ago with the arrival of Guru Padmasambhava in Tibet, and with the introduction of his new sect - Gelugpa - the old philosophy of Western Tibet schools was lost and their unique philosophical practices almost died. Now Tabo is the only living monastery outside Tibet depicting similar mandalas on the walls of the Dukhang. Tabo is also the home of the incarnated H.H. The Dalai Lama's junior tutor. Tabo has seen a lot of physical changes in the last 20 years. A new gompa and a school has been built for the young monks as well as civil administration buildings, local schools, agricultural works and electrification have changed the character of the village drastically. The combined impact of the very impressive government effort to improve the various aspects of the communal life in the region has had, none the less, an unfortunate impact on the cultural geography.
What to see :-
Lahlung Village
Drive along the Spiti river upstream, take a right turn and climb steeply for about 30 minutes (17 kms on the link road) to the top of the ridge and follow the Lingti Nalla, which joins the Spiti, flowing far down in the gorge towards the left. The Lingti is known to originate in the mountains of Shilla and Gya, 6,500 meter-plus peaks on the border of India and Tibet. Another 20 minutes drive brings you to the flatter fertile terraced farming lands of Lahlung village.
Lahlung is a small village consisting of a cluster of 50 to 60 houses with a population of 250 inhabitants. The gompa, which is situated on top of the village, is invisible from the road. Leave your vehicles and climb for about 15 minutes to the gompa. The main temple is intricately decorated with unique mandala frescoes and statues with the main statue of Bodhisatava in the centre. A small but very attractive temple depicts the philosophy which originated in Western Tibet about 800 years ago.
To the right of the temple is an empty room used as a kitchen and for pilgrims to stay. The monastery is overshadowed by a huge fig tree providing much needed shade from the direct sun. Visit another small temple to the left of the main building which houses a four-headed clay statue of Buddha looking in four different directions.
Dhankar Monastery
After an early breakfast drive 8.5 kms on the link road and climb steeply to Dhankar, a most incredibly-situated gompa, perched high on barren rocky mountain slopes. As you progress, the whole Dhankar village opens up in front of you like something artificial crops up from nowhere. Park your vehicles at the beginning of the village and walk for about half an hour past mud houses on to your right and fields to the left with the Spiti river flowing down below.
The 6th century gompa, though not well preserved still has some magnificent original tangkhas and statues tucked away in dark rooms. You are advised to carry your flashlight to see some of the beautiful remaining murals. Unfortunately a part of the gompa was destroyed during the severe winter of 1989 and the repair work by the locals has led to the further destruction of these priceless murals.
How to Reach
From Manali
Tabo Can be approached from Manali by driving approx 250 Kms over Rohtang pass. While as this is just 50 Kms in east of Kaza which is the regional headquarter of this region. Kunjum pass remain close in winter, therefore recommended to make your travel plan from June to October. It depends on the snow condition at Kunzum pass and Rohtang pass in winter season.
From Shimla:
Tabo Can be approached from Shimla and you can travel round the year. In winter this is recommended to have 4 wheel drive to avoid heavy snow condition. Tabo is approx 365 Kms from Shimla via Sarhan – Sangla – Tabo.
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